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Bigger is better – I am old enough to remember those slogans.
Back when I was young (CENTURIES ago, people!), minimalism wasn´t really a thing. You had to always have more. The newest, the latest, the biggest.
It didn´t matter if you did need it. Or even use it, for that matter. You just needed to HAVE it. And while minimalism (and low-buys) seem to be everywhere these days, I feel like some of that more is more mentality is still around.
Take skincare ingredients for example – some seem to think that the higher the percentage of “active ingredient”, the better the product, not taking into account that your skin can actually only absorb a certain amount, and once that amount is reached, the rest goes to waste.
The effect is called bioavailability, and for Vitamin C it seems to be somewhere around 20 – 25%.
Which means that a formula containing 30% Vitamin C, like THE INKEY LIST Vitamin C Serum, essentially contains more than you can use.
Is this a bad thing? Not necessarily. But the higher the percentage, the higher the risk for irritation – so let´s take a closer look at THE INKEY LIST Vitamin C Serum.
What THE INKEY LIST claims
A powerful antioxidant with a host of benefits, vitamin C is a skin care celebrity for a reason. Able to both prevent and correct signs of damage, Vitamin C Serum can help to reduce the impact of daily skin stressors, including pollution and sun exposure, which can lead to pigmentation, accelerated signs of ageing and dullness (no thanks!) As well as this, vitamin C works to actively brighten and even out skin tone, while also boosting collagen production to enhance skin’s plumpness and elasticity. Offering all of these benefits (without eye-watering cost or alienating jargon) THE INKEY LIST’s Vitamin C Serum stars 30% pure, L-Ascorbic Acid in a stable, waterless formulation for optimum results and low irritation. Add this into your regime and you can expect bright, even, protected, youthful-looking skin.
Prize and size
One tube contains 30 ml and retails for 7,99 £ on Cult Beauty.
Texture and smell
The texture is surprisingly thick and feels more like a cream than a serum. I had no issues spreading it onto my skin, but as I explain below I prefer to mix it with a hyaluronic acid serum ( half and half) rather than use it on its own. While the serum itself has barely any scent, it leaves a slightly metallic odor on my skin and hands that lingers throughout the day. I have found that to be true with many Ascorbic Acid products.
Application and effects
My skin isn´t sensitive, but upon application (on cleansed skin in the mornings) I experienced a noticeable tingle. It was actually pretty uncomfortable and redness inducing, so I started mixing it to my Hyaluronic Acid Serum which both increased spreadibility and eliminated the tingle.
After six weeks of using it I feel like my face looks brighter all over and acne scars fade quicker – very welcome in the aftermath of a serious series of acne breakouts that started in August.
If you read reviews online, many people complain about piling, probably due to the high silicone content. Mixed with Hyaluronic Acid that wasn’t an issue for me, but on its own the formula proved tricky to work with.
- Dimethicone: Emollient. antiinflammatory
- Ascorbic Acid: reduces hyperpigmentation, important for collagen production, antioxidant
- PEG-100 Dimethicone: Emollient
You really get what it says on the label with this product: Vitamin C in the form of Ascorbic Acid with silicones as carrier/emollients. Very efficient, yes, but also quite strong.
Does it live up to its claims?
Most of them.
While I agree on the effects (and the low costs) I beg to differ on “low irritation”. This is not the Vitamin C I would recommend for people with sensitive skin.
Would I repurchase?
I like the effect, I like the price, and mixed in with Hyaluronic Acid it is useable. I would prefer a lower concentration though, with hopefully less irritation.
Who do I recommend it to?
Vitamin C is one of the ingredients I recommend you introduce in your mid-twenties (depending on concerns and lifestyle of course), and this one packs a punch in terms of results. Paired with the low price I honestly don´t think you can go wrong. Unless you are sensitive, in this case opt for a lower percentage or other form of Vitamin C.