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Sometimes a tiny letter can make a huge difference. Make you question things, for example. In cosmetic science, that letter is usually a „v“.
Why a „v“ you ask?
And imagine how great it would have been had I said a „y“ -Y a „y“?
Because „in vivo“ sounds pretty similar to „in vitro“, but in terms of results there is a huge difference.
See, many ingredients proove their claim on human cells. In the lab, in petri dishes, swimming in a special broth. Which is NOT the same as being attached to a moving human being, always on the run and with many other cofactors like sweat, spf and (other) sexy things (for the sake of the alliteration) that could impede penetration.
Because skin is actually designed to stop things from penetrating (as we have learned here), and we can´t switch that off on demand.
But why am I going on about the difference the „v“ makes? Because when it comes to peptides, there are two different camps. The „It works“ one and the one that will tell you that peptides are too big to penetrate the skin „in vivo“ and thus are a waste of money.
And if you haven´t made up your mind yet, The Ordinary Matrixyl 10% + HA will let you see for yourself without breaking the bank.
What The Ordinary claims
Matrixyl is a highly-effective peptide composition that has been shown to reduce the look of dynamic wrinkles. It contains two generations of matrixyl (matrixyl 3000 and matrixyl synthe’6) at a combined concentration of 10 percent by weight in a specialized hyaluronic acid delivery system.
Prize and size
Texture and smell
Seethrough, no distinguishable scent and a little oily in texture, but without adding any greasiness to my skin.
Application and effects
Upon application you will experience some tackiness, probably due to the hyaluronic acid, but only for a few seconds. It can easily be used under makeup. As far as the effects go, they are mainly aimed at prevention and repair, so I didn´t expect to see any major changes. I can however vouch for the fact that it immediately plumps my skin, most likely again due to the hyaluronic acid content.
- Glycerin: Humectant, draws moisture to the skin
- Butylene Glycol: Humectant, draws moisture to the skin
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1/-7/-38: Matrixyl complex, increases synthesis of collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans
- Sodium Hyaluronate: Hydrating, smaller form of hyaluronic acid with deeper penetration
- Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin: Stabilizes antioxidants
- PPG-26-Buteth-26: Emulsifying
- PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: Emulsifying, should not be used on broken
- Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6: Emulsifying
- Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate: Chelating agent
- Carbomer: Thickener
- Polysorbate 20: Surfactant
- Ethoxydiglycol: Solvent, controls viscosity
- Phenoxyethanol: Preservative
- Chlorphenesin: Preservative
Again, a straight forward formula that contains the claimed peptides (in a pretty high concentration), deep penetrating hyaluronic acid for enhanced delivery (and added plumpness) and a few humectants. Throw in some necessities like preservatives and emulsifiers and you are done.
Does it live up to its claims?
Only time will tell.
As I said, this is not designed for overnight effects, but for increased collagen production that helps slow down the bulldog cheeks that come with age. Does my face feel firmer? Some days yes, some days no, depending on my mood much more than on the products I used. But if you believe that the in vitro research will transfer to in vivo results, then yes, it has everything to back up the claims.
Would I repurchase?
I do believe in prevention, and I figure that it is better to apply peptides now and maybe waste a little money than to not use them and be sorry when in 15 years they have proven their efficacy. At that price, you are not risking much money.
Who do I recommend it to?
If you have passed the age of 35 or lead a life that makes you prone to loss of collagen (sun exposure, smoking, lots of sugar), this should be added to your routine. Or one of the many other products containing Matrixyl, which is by no means exclusive to The Ordinary, but instead has been around for quite some time now.