Why the pixi Jasmine Retinol Lotion is actually NOT a retinol

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Let’s address the elephant in the room first. Yes, I said in the title that the pixi Jasmine Retinol Lotion is actually NOT a retinol. How come?

Well, if you have read my post on Retinol vs retinoid – your comprehensive retinol guide then you will know that Retinol is a molecule, while Retinoids is the umbrella term.

 

pixi Retinol Jasmine Lotion
pixi Retinol Jasmine Lotion

 

And while the pixi Retinol Jasmine Lotion contains a Retinoid (Retinyl Palmitate), it does not contain Retinol, and that makes a difference in terms of results. Why call it a Retinol Lotion then? Because the term Retinol is often used in marketing to describe Retinoid products of different strengths, which I think is incredibly confusing.

But misleading name aside, I still think the pixi Retinol Jasmine Lotion is a great product, and if you read on, I will explain why.

What the pixi Jasmine Retinol Lotion claims

Lightweight yet deeply moisturising, this antioxidant-rich milky-lotion is the perfect daily moisturiser for a youth enhancing effect. Formulated with vitamin A, jasmine oil and peptides to renew, smooth and deeply nourish.

 

Some facts about the pixi Jasmine Retinol Lotion

Prize and size

Just like the other items in the pixi Retinol Collection, it comes in light purple packaging. The tube contains 50 ml and retails for 24 $ on the website here, which is in line with the other moisturizers in pixis Collection.

 

pixi Retinol Jasmine Lotion
Close up of the pixi Retinol Jasmine Lotion

 

Texture and smell

Lightweight indeed, but not like a gel, more like a hydrating, but immediately absorbing lotion with a light scent that I would say reminds me of Lavender, but probably is supposed to be Jasmine – I suck at describing scents.

 

How to use the pixi Retinol Jasmine Lotion

Depending on your skin type this is a very nice moisturizer to use either in the morning or at night – my combination skin enjoys it in the evenings. Despite the name I would not fear pairing it with acids or other retinoid products, as I personally don’t think you will get any retinol effect out of it.

 

Ingredients of the pixi Jasmine Retinol Lotion

Favorable ingredients
  • Glycerin: Humectant
  • Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride:Occlusive, antioxidant
  • 1,2-Hexanediol: Humectant
  • Cetearyl Alcohol: Emollient, emulsifier
  • Dicaprylyl Carbonate: Emollient
  • Retinyl Palmitate: Weakest form of retinoid, bound to a fatty acid. Less irritant, but usually less effective
  • Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Oil: Emollient
  • Sodium Hyaluronate: Hydrating, smaller form of hyaluronic acid with deeper penetration
  • Ceramide NP (Ceramide 3): ca. 21% of total ceramide pool in stratum corneum, works synergistically with Ceramide 1 to improve skin barrier function
  • Copper Tripeptide-1: Peptide, increases collagen production, anti inflammatory, might stimulate hair growth
  • Rubus Fruticosus Seed Oil: Rich in Vitamin C and E, antioxidants, promoting collagen
  • Trehalose: Humectant, “Sugar of life”, forms gel protecting against dehydration, antioxidant
  • Shea Butter: Emollient
  • Tocopherol: Antioxidant, reduces hyperpigmentation and improves skins elasticity
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Precursor of Vitamin C, more stable, less irritant, brightening. Antioxidant
  • Thymus Vulgaris Extract:  Antioxidant
  • Arginine: Aminoacid, healing, increases cell turnover, stimulates growth factors
  • Tocopheryl Acetate: More stable form of Vitamin E, antioxidant
  • Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil:Rich in Vitamin E and linoleic acid, anti-inflammatory
  • Panthenol: B 5, humectant, penetrates into deep layers of skin, moisturizing, antiinflammatory
  • Biotin: Vitamin H, good for the skin as supplement, effects topically questionable
  • Buddleja Davidii Extract: Smoothing
  • Hydrogenated Lecithin: Emulsifying, increases cell penetration of other ingredients
  • Soybean (Glycine Soja) Oil: Rich in Vitamin E, B complex and linoleic acid
  • Glyceryl Arachinodate: Emollient
  • Glyceryl Linoleate: Emollient
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate: Emollient
  • Sorbitan Isostearate:  Humectant
  • Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil: Emollient

 

Other ingredients
  • Cetearyl Olivate: Emulsifier
  • Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer: Thickener
  • Citric Acid: AHA/pH adjuster
  • Dipropylene Glycol: Solvent
  • Polysorbate 60 : Thickener
  • Carbomer: Thickener
  • Xanthan Gum: Improves viscosity
  • Disodium EDTA: Binding Agent

As I mentioned before, the product does not contain Retinol, but instead Retinyl Palmitate, which needs three conversion steps to reach the active form and looses so much potency over time that some experts claim that it is pointless applied topically.

It has a nice blend of humectants though, along with Ceramide 3, Copper tripeptide-1 and Panthenol, all of which work together at soothing and repairing the skins barrier. In fact I would go as far as say that this is not a retinol lotion, but a lotion to use if you use retinol, to counteract the side effects.

The added plant extracts and oils might put some people off, as might the shea butter, but I personally experienced no irritation or clogged pores when using it.

If you have severe peanut allergies, please note that this product contains a minimal amount of Peanut Oil.

 

Does the pixi Jasmine Retinol Lotion live up to its claims?

That depends if you count the naming as claims.

It is NOT a Retinol Lotion, but it is lightweight, yet moisturizing and contains a Retinoid, Peptides and Jasmine Oil.

 

How does the pixi Jasmine Retinol Lotion compare to…

The Inkey List Ceramide Night Treatment

I don´t have my full review of this one up just yet, but I have already tested it long enough to tell you that it is as lightweight, a little less hydrating (no shea butter) and contains a mixture of Ceramides to repair the skin without added plant oils. Depending on your preferences that might be a good or a bad thing for you – I actually prefer it if my skin is really irritated.

 

The pixi Rose Ceramide Cream

This one is the richer version of a Ceramide containing moisturizer from pixi, and it also comes without the added Retinyl Palmitate. I think the Rose Ceramide version is better suited at dry skin or for night time use, while the Jasmine Retinol Lotion works better for normal to combination skin and can be used in the mornings as well.

Read my full review of the pixi Rose Ceramide Cream here

 

Would I repurchase the pixi Jasmine Retinol Lotion?

Maybe.

I like it a lot, but when it comes to repurchasing I think I have others that I like more.

 

Who do I recommend it to?

People with normal to combination skin that want barrier repair and lightweight hydration. If you are looking for a Retinol effect, look elsewhere.

 

Why the pixi Retinol Jasmine Lotion does not contain Retinol, and how it works instead.
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